<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><?xml-stylesheet href="http://www.blogger.com/styles/atom.css" type="text/css"?><feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/' xmlns:georss='http://www.georss.org/georss'><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494</id><updated>2010-02-11T14:45:58.928-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Garden Blog 2009</title><subtitle type='html'>Garden Journal 2009. Garden is 0.4 acres with several beds of fruit and vegetables,in Zone 5B, Brantford, Ontario, Canada. The Journal is mostly pictures with a short explanation.The Journal is updated daily depending upon something of interest appearing. I add material from previous years if it has enduring information.</subtitle><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/'/><link rel='hub' href='http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/'/><link rel='next' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default?start-index=26&amp;max-results=25'/><link rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/atom.xml'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><generator version='7.00' uri='http://www.blogger.com'>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>186</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>25</openSearch:itemsPerPage><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-4089633485217425837</id><published>2009-10-23T10:18:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-23T10:41:39.332-07:00</updated><title type='text'>New Type Tomato Plant Support</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?HSTRY" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?HSTRY&lt;/a&gt;  23 October 2009 New Type Tomato Plant Support&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This support at first look appears to be ideal for supporting tomato plants in the home garden.  The ring is 9 inches in diameter and diameter is about 1/8 inch and is stiff and very strong.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;One of the sides of the ring can be easily removed to facilitate circling an existing plant, particularly if a support is required lower than the those installed.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The plastic clamp is well made and of strong construction.  I use rebar for support, but wooden stakes up to about two inches could be utilized.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?JMRZU"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?JMRZU&lt;/a&gt; Purchased here at $2.99 US.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-4089633485217425837?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/4089633485217425837/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/new-type-tomato-plant-support.html#comment-form' title='1 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/4089633485217425837'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/4089633485217425837'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/new-type-tomato-plant-support.html' title='New Type Tomato Plant Support'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>1</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-7919456334725649377</id><published>2009-10-21T12:16:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-21T12:35:46.489-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Pruning my Raspberries</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?CQAID" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?CQAID&lt;/a&gt;  21 October 2009 Pruning my Raspberries&lt;br /&gt;Two types of raspberries are in the garden. June and Fall bearing, and Everbearing. I never knew the name of the cultivars.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The June and Fall bearing produce fruit in June 2010 on pruned canes that produced fruit in 2009. The cut point is below the bearing clusters. If completely cut to the ground only a Fall crop will be produced on new growth of 2010. Two bearing times for these by the pruning method used, June and Fall.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Everbearing: No fruit were produced on this patch in 2009 and they were cut to the ground in 2008, so this year the 2009 canes were cleaned up and will be left to see if they produce in 2010.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-7919456334725649377?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/7919456334725649377/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/pruning-my-raspberries.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/7919456334725649377'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/7919456334725649377'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/pruning-my-raspberries.html' title='Pruning my Raspberries'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-7301792635074850085</id><published>2009-10-21T11:25:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-21T11:37:56.100-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Garden Cover Crop</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?WPLTN" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?WPLTN&lt;/a&gt;  21 October 2009  Garden Cover Crop&lt;br /&gt;The cover crop of double cut red annual clover was planted on 5 September 2009. It has been cold and growth has been inhibited. The clover should be about four inches tall at this time of year, but the roots will still fix some nitrogen in the soil. It will be rototilled into the soil in the Spring.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-7301792635074850085?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/7301792635074850085/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/garden-cover-crop.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/7301792635074850085'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/7301792635074850085'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/garden-cover-crop.html' title='Garden Cover Crop'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-3290574463156740356</id><published>2009-10-19T12:58:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-19T14:32:16.612-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Crosne (Stachys affinis)</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?JZQMJ"target=_&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?JZQMJ&lt;/a&gt;     19 October 2009 Crosne (Stachys affinis) Final Harvesting and Processing.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Crosne were dug a total weight of 15 pounds from the row, around 40 plants.  Seven liters of the crosne were pickled in vinegar for future use, and a liter was left out for eating fresh. The blue tarp under the plants has no real advantage, and will be abandoned next year.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If the climate is congenial, the tubers can be left in the ground and dug as required, but this is not an option in my cold region.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Last year most tubers  got ruined, since they were kept under water in a pail, and taste and color  changed. Crosne change to a dark color quickly in the refrigerator, so pickling seems like a good choice for storage.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Some tubers were placed in a pot and buried in the ground for seed in 2010. This same practice was successful last year.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-3290574463156740356?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/3290574463156740356/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/crosne-stachys-affinis.html#comment-form' title='2 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/3290574463156740356'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/3290574463156740356'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/crosne-stachys-affinis.html' title='Crosne (Stachys affinis)'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>2</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-6025370687920448842</id><published>2009-10-14T11:53:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-14T13:08:50.620-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Goji berry, Chinese Wolfberry, Lycium barbarum</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?OBPCS" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?OBPCS&lt;/a&gt;    14 October 2009 Goja Berries. Various views of the berries and plants.&lt;br /&gt;Inspecting the garden after the first severe frost, six goja berries were discovered on one Chinese Wolfberry plant. This is after 18 months from seed growth. There are three plants in the garden. Two are thriving and the other is healthy but stunted, since a rabbit ate the top in the Spring of 2009.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?EHWKI" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?EHWKI&lt;/a&gt;   26 February 2008 Chinese Wolfberry (Lycium barbarum)&lt;br /&gt;The Chinese Wolfberry pods were planted on 10 February 2008. Due to ignorance the whole pod was planted, but it is only necessary to plant one seed per plant. They were thinned and the stronger plant will be kept as they get larger. Germination was about 14 days and it appears maybe planting the pod is a good idea, since the germination was probably 100%. The plant is a perennial. Fruit production is in the third and fourth year, according to the literature.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-6025370687920448842?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/6025370687920448842/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/goji-berry-chinese-wolfberry-lycium.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/6025370687920448842'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/6025370687920448842'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/goji-berry-chinese-wolfberry-lycium.html' title='Goji berry, Chinese Wolfberry, Lycium barbarum'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-4609090104315689559</id><published>2009-10-11T06:41:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-11T06:53:33.560-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Planting Horseradish for 2010 crop</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?XSBFR" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?XSBFR&lt;/a&gt;    11 October 2009 Planting Horseradish for 2010 crop&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Any shoot could be used, since the plant grows well with even a small piece. I chose a large chunk from the main shoot since the season is late. Usually I start the plant in a pot in July, but was away this year so am compromising. The pots will be dug up in early Spring, and planted in open ground with a square foot board under the plant to make digging easier. It is a bit wet or the procedure would be done now. The plant will form strong roots in the pot, since there is probably another month of reasonable growing left for this season. The plants could also be grown in the house to over-winter if desired. I treat the horseradish as an annual.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-4609090104315689559?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/4609090104315689559/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/planting-horseradish-for-2010-crop.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/4609090104315689559'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/4609090104315689559'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/planting-horseradish-for-2010-crop.html' title='Planting Horseradish for 2010 crop'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-3964083994434674304</id><published>2009-10-10T08:32:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-10T09:35:33.618-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Digging and Processing Horseradish</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?BKKWA" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?BKKWA&lt;/a&gt;    10 October 2009 Digging and Processing Horseradish.&lt;br /&gt;The square foot board placed under the plant makes digging the roots easy. I read about the procedure on some garden forum, and this was my first year trying it. The plant was a real joy to dig as opposed to previous years. All the processing is best done ou doors, due to the strong fumes given off by the roots.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?horseradish" target="_blank"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?horseradish&lt;/a&gt;  5 October 2008 Planting Horseradish&lt;br /&gt;This is how the horseradish was planted in the Fall of 2008. I treat this perennial as an annual, since I believe the roots are less fibrous, and make better condiment. Two plants are grown each year.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-3964083994434674304?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/3964083994434674304/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/digging-and-processing-horseradish.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/3964083994434674304'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/3964083994434674304'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/digging-and-processing-horseradish.html' title='Digging and Processing Horseradish'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-534896385319207437</id><published>2009-10-09T06:28:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-09T06:33:43.478-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Hair Dryer and Pot Foaming</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?UOSIJ" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?UOSIJ&lt;/a&gt;  9 October 2009 Hair Dryer and Pot Foaming&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When cooking various food often a layer of bubbles form on top of the contents and the pot overflows. To prevent this from occurring simply blow the surface with a hair dryer. The bubbles are broken up instantly.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-534896385319207437?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/534896385319207437/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/hair-dryer-and-pot-foaming.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/534896385319207437'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/534896385319207437'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/hair-dryer-and-pot-foaming.html' title='Hair Dryer and Pot Foaming'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-8682339430192881968</id><published>2009-10-08T10:14:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-08T11:11:03.114-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Garlic planted</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?RZUHC"target=_&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?RZUHC&lt;/a&gt;  8 October 2009 Planting Garlic (Allium sativum, Hard neck)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Planted using 2009 best and largest cloves. Seventy five cloves were planted for the main harvest.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Forty five bulblets from another garden, and fifteen one year old cloves, which grew from bulblets last year in another garden, were planted as an experiment to see how large the bulbs will get.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Spacing is 6 inch centers, and depth is about three inches for the base of the clove. The bed was prepared on the 10 of September and covered with wood chips to diffuse rain water and to reduce moisture evaporation.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;After planting the wood chips were raked over the bed to limit frost heaving of the soil during the freeze and thaw cycles during the winter. The mulch will be moved away from the emerging shoots in the early spring.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-8682339430192881968?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/8682339430192881968/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/garlic-planted.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/8682339430192881968'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/8682339430192881968'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/garlic-planted.html' title='Garlic planted'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-3557339466961177030</id><published>2009-10-08T09:23:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-19T12:58:01.648-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Crosne (Stachys affinis) First Harvest</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?NDDTQ" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?NDDTQ&lt;/a&gt;  8 October 2009 Crosne (Stachys affinis) First Harvest&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Forty seed tubers were planted in the early Spring in a channel lined with an old pool tarp with a cross section of about one square foot, to make harvest easier and to contain the roots. The new tubers will grow until freeze-up in about a month. The tubers are good size now, but will probably get a little larger in another month of growing. When the main harvest is accomplished in about a month , the tubers will be pickled. I also ingest them raw as one would eat radishes and the texture is similar to a new raw potato.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Some tubers will be left in the ground to over-winter and the tubers will be used for seed in 2010. One plant produced about one pound of tubers.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-3557339466961177030?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/3557339466961177030/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/crosne-stachys-affinis-first-harvest.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/3557339466961177030'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/3557339466961177030'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/crosne-stachys-affinis-first-harvest.html' title='Crosne (Stachys affinis) First Harvest'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-5855540102302234758</id><published>2009-10-06T17:41:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-06T17:43:39.069-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Making Tofu</title><content type='html'>&lt;style&gt;&lt;/style&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?SLINC"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?SLINC&lt;/a&gt;  23 September 2008. Soy milk and Tofu making&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;A simple method of making tofu. Pictures depict the method.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-5855540102302234758?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/5855540102302234758/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/making-tofu.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/5855540102302234758'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/5855540102302234758'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/making-tofu.html' title='Making Tofu'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-640352263740940373</id><published>2009-10-06T17:37:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-06T17:56:06.069-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Natto Making at Home</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?Natto" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?Natto&lt;/a&gt;   14 December 2008 Natto Making at Home&lt;br /&gt;A simple method of making Natto, fermented soil beans, which supposed to have beneficial nutritional benefits. Eating is an acquired experience.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-640352263740940373?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/640352263740940373/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/natto-making-at-home.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/640352263740940373'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/640352263740940373'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/natto-making-at-home.html' title='Natto Making at Home'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-1359659738593841643</id><published>2009-10-06T15:24:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-06T15:27:35.310-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Making Soy Milk</title><content type='html'>&lt;style&gt;&lt;/style&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?LNWXO"target=_&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?LNWXO&lt;/a&gt;   14 September 2008 Making Soy Milk Using this home method, at least one knows what  they are drinking. It is a simple procedure.  &lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-1359659738593841643?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/1359659738593841643/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/making-soy-milk.html#comment-form' title='2 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/1359659738593841643'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/1359659738593841643'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/making-soy-milk.html' title='Making Soy Milk'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>2</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-464573486726468095</id><published>2009-10-06T06:05:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-06T07:04:28.722-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Feeding my Dog</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?ECNJG" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?ECNJG&lt;/a&gt;   6 October 2009 Dog Food&lt;br /&gt;I consider commercial dog food to be unhealthy. My small 11 pound Pomeranian is fed a home preparation. Commercial treats, I consider poison.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The ingredients are readily available, prepared vegetable juice (various fruits and vegetables mixed in a blender), frozen raw liver, canned sardine, one egg yolk. Basically all the food is raw. Only the egg yolk is given, since the white is sort of slimy and difficult for the dog to swallow. This preparation has been the dog's diet for most of her four year old life.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Prior to her walk she is given some cooked large flake oats with milk, which is part of my breakfast. Dogs generally should not be exercised immediately after feeding. Neena is fed the main meal once per day after her morning 5 km walk. She gobbles the food within one or two minutes. She passes feces only once per day, during her morning walk.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Later in the day she is give a small  frozen lamb chop with bone to clean her teeth, which she gnaws at for about half an hour in the yard. These are purchased frozen from Price Chopper.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;She is never given commercial dog treats, but gets a taste of table scraps if available. Training is by compliments.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If Neena's weight rises above 12 pounds, food is withheld for a day periodically, since dogs can metabolize body fat readily. An overweight dog is an unhealthy dog.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-464573486726468095?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/464573486726468095/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/feeding-my-dog.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/464573486726468095'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/464573486726468095'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/feeding-my-dog.html' title='Feeding my Dog'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-6879185338311071431</id><published>2009-10-04T08:27:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-04T08:37:40.786-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Brussels Sprouts</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?MUNSA"target=_&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?MUNSA&lt;/a&gt;  4 October 2009 Brussels Sprouts&lt;br /&gt;Brussels sprouts are producing well. There is some insect damage on the outer layers of the sprouts, but no worms inside. Cutting the stem of the individual sprout easily removes the outer damaged layers. These plants will produce well into the frost period. some say the flavor is enhanced after a deep frost, but I see no difference. A few plants produce a great quantity of sprouts. The growing period is long, about six months plus. The sprouts can be picked as needed throughout the growing period.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-6879185338311071431?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/6879185338311071431/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/brussels-sprouts.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/6879185338311071431'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/6879185338311071431'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/brussels-sprouts.html' title='Brussels Sprouts'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-3191142155263477183</id><published>2009-10-03T16:57:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-03T17:04:58.795-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Oriental (Chinese) Vegetables</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?ULINM" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?ULINM&lt;/a&gt;  A source for Oriental Vegetable seeds. For those who want new plants. I was exposed to a few this year. Radish was excellent and the size was astonishing and not woody. Radish FRr023. In 2010 the intention is grow a variety of these Chinese vegetables.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-3191142155263477183?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/3191142155263477183/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/oriental-chinese-vegetables.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/3191142155263477183'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/3191142155263477183'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/oriental-chinese-vegetables.html' title='Oriental (Chinese) Vegetables'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-2066212421548780759</id><published>2009-10-03T06:42:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-10-10T11:35:23.574-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Raspberry</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?LZBGU" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?LZBGU&lt;/a&gt;  3 October 2009 Raspberry&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;These late season raspberries are good quality. It has been wet and cold so they were a bit late ripening. This is the first quantity picking this season.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?ZXSDN" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?ZXSDN&lt;/a&gt;    6 October 2009 Raspberries&lt;br /&gt;Another picking. Ladybugs are prevalent amongst the fruit, and there are one of two wasps eating the berries.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?GMCDX"target=_&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?GMCDX&lt;/a&gt;  10 October 2009 Raspberries&lt;br /&gt;More berries picked. Quality is still excellent. It has been cold so quantity is a bit reduced.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-2066212421548780759?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/2066212421548780759/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/raspberry.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/2066212421548780759'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/2066212421548780759'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/10/raspberry.html' title='Raspberry'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-3013830848219935395</id><published>2009-09-24T13:40:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-09-24T13:58:53.581-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Hot Pepper Harvest.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?LUSES" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?LUSES&lt;/a&gt;    24 September 2009 Hot Pepper Harvest.&lt;br /&gt;Four plants, purchased from a supplier, hence no name for the cultivar. All the peppers were picked.The pods are dried in the greenhouse, then will be placed in the blender and reduced to make red hot paprika, for use as a condiment. There is still some left from last year. All peppers grow well in my garden with little care, except for a drink of vinegar and water periodically to locally decrease the pH.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-3013830848219935395?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/3013830848219935395/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/hot-pepper-harvest.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/3013830848219935395'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/3013830848219935395'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/hot-pepper-harvest.html' title='Hot Pepper Harvest.'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-4669805232111483744</id><published>2009-09-21T07:06:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-09-23T17:12:36.143-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Shed Roof Replacement with Suntuf Panels.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?BNPIX" target="_blank"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?BNPIX&lt;/a&gt;  21 September 2009 Shed Roof Replacerment with Suntuf Panels.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In 2004 a shed was build and typical PVC panels was used for the roof. Similar to Palruf, but am not certain of the name at this time. It may even had been Palruf. This was desired for having ample light in the shed. The material went through about two seasons then it got brittle and cracks appeared. Clearly this material is almost useless for building. The roof was replaced with Suntuf, which is supposed to have a long life and is UV resistant. Both products appear flexible and strong when new. Suntuf is about $50.00 for a 2 by 12 foot sheet, whereas the old PVC panel is about $30.00 for a similar sized sheet.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-4669805232111483744?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/4669805232111483744/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/garden-shed-roof-replacement-with.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/4669805232111483744'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/4669805232111483744'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/garden-shed-roof-replacement-with.html' title='Shed Roof Replacement with Suntuf Panels.'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-2871513503961769012</id><published>2009-09-19T09:09:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-09-20T04:10:12.482-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Edamame- Soy Beans in the pod.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?DIVNK"target=_&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?DIVNK&lt;/a&gt;  18 September 2009 Edamamee- Soy beans cooked in the pod.&lt;br /&gt;Edamame- a soybean that can be eaten fresh and is best known as a snack with a nutritional punch.&lt;br /&gt;Soy beans are picked before drying out and boiled in water for a few minutes. The pods are soft and the bean can be removed by pulling through the teeth and lips. This is an ideal nutritious snack, far superior to junk food. Try them you may like. The cooked beans can be frozen for later use. The Chinese have been using soy beans for about 5000 years.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-2871513503961769012?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/2871513503961769012/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/endame-soy-beans-in-pod.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/2871513503961769012'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/2871513503961769012'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/endame-soy-beans-in-pod.html' title='Edamame- Soy Beans in the pod.'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-6606944516304899553</id><published>2009-09-19T07:54:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-09-19T09:01:56.779-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Mulching Benefits</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?MVECR" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?MVECR&lt;/a&gt;   17 September 2009 Mulch Benefits&lt;br /&gt;Pictures of the yard with comments regarding the mulch.&lt;br /&gt;The prime consideration for mulching is moisture retention due to evaporation,  to prevent the top few inches of soil from hard panning. If the top layer of soil dries out, essentially a great part of a growing area has become ineffective for plant growth. The plant roots cannot be aerated if the top layer is basically impregnable. Therefore to enhance conditions mulch is used.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;My garden area is now mulched with wood chips, which are picked up free of charge from the city. Wood chips are relatively loose and water and air can seep through. The chips decompose in about a year and more are added each Fall. In my case wood chips are an ideal mulch.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When wood chips are utilized in the vegetable garden, after harvest the chips remaining are rototilled into the soil. A small amount of urea is broadcast to supply some nitrogen to aid decomposition.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-6606944516304899553?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/6606944516304899553/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/mulching-benefits.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/6606944516304899553'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/6606944516304899553'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/mulching-benefits.html' title='Mulching Benefits'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-5432208679811307127</id><published>2009-09-17T07:26:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-09-17T08:15:12.584-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Viburnum Leaf Beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni) control</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?XKTMT" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?XKTMT&lt;/a&gt;   17 September 2009 Viburnum Leaf Beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni) control&lt;br /&gt;This pest devastated my European snowball (Viburnum) bushes in the Spring of 2009. Originally from Europe and Asia, established breeding populations were first recorded in 1978 in the Ottawa-Hull area. Attempting to preempt an attack in 2010 spraying with a mixture of lime sulfur and horticulture oil was commenced. This is about the only commercial insecticide in my arsenal. Pictures depict the procedure undertaken. Does it work? Spring of 2010 will be the time for evaluation.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-5432208679811307127?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/5432208679811307127/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/viburnum-leaf-beetle-pyrrhalta-viburni.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/5432208679811307127'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/5432208679811307127'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/viburnum-leaf-beetle-pyrrhalta-viburni.html' title='Viburnum Leaf Beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni) control'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-5977131615199895603</id><published>2009-09-16T15:41:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-09-16T15:52:46.777-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Snapdragons</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?WZVTS"target=_&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?WZVTS&lt;/a&gt;   16 September 2009 Snapdragon&lt;br /&gt;Snapdragons are planted throughout the garden in various free spaces. They are treated as an annual in my area. Usually the small plants are bought from a supplier in the Spring. Snapdragons are perennial plants often sold as cold-season annual plants and do best in full or partial sun.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-5977131615199895603?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/5977131615199895603/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/snapdragons.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/5977131615199895603'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/5977131615199895603'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/snapdragons.html' title='Snapdragons'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-6161779745751931063</id><published>2009-09-16T15:11:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-09-16T15:24:30.567-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Concord Grapes</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?YLZVT"target=_&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?YLZVT&lt;/a&gt;  16 September 2009 Concord Grapes.&lt;br /&gt;This is the only grape vine out of four varieties that produced reasonably well this year. The clusters should be fully ripe in about two weeks. Concord is probably my favorite table grape, and if I have extra juice is made. It requires a lot of grapes to get any reasonable quantity of juice about 8 pounds per liter- but wonderful juice. This is the four year for this plant.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-6161779745751931063?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/6161779745751931063/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/concord-grapes.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/6161779745751931063'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/6161779745751931063'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/concord-grapes.html' title='Concord Grapes'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8913102575875822494.post-2414273329447520903</id><published>2009-09-14T13:07:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2009-09-14T13:17:17.316-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Wood Chip Mulch</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://www.durgan.org/URL/?WXDVC" target="_"&gt;http://www.durgan.org/URL/?WXDVC&lt;/a&gt;  14 September 2009 Wood Chip Mulch&lt;br /&gt;City of Brantford supplies wood chip mulch for public uses all year around. A removable box of half a cubic yard is installed in my minivan, and chips are picked up as required. This load was stored in a large soil/mulch bag for later use on the garlic bed. Each load is about 3.5 wheelbarrows of material.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8913102575875822494-2414273329447520903?l=www.durgan.org%2FBlog' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/2414273329447520903/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/wood-chip-mulch.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/2414273329447520903'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8913102575875822494/posts/default/2414273329447520903'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.durgan.org/Blog/2009/09/wood-chip-mulch.html' title='Wood Chip Mulch'/><author><name>Durgan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03579453386078523706</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='OpenSocialUserId' value='05379167944866089323'/></author><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry></feed>